{"id":1822,"date":"2014-08-07T07:10:25","date_gmt":"2014-08-07T07:10:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/?p=1822"},"modified":"2014-08-07T07:10:25","modified_gmt":"2014-08-07T07:10:25","slug":"xornadario-balcanico-dia-11-xoves-11-xullo-2012","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/?p=1822","title":{"rendered":"Xornadario balc\u00e1nico (d\u00eda 11) Xoves, 11 xullo 2012"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><em><strong><a href=\"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/cordero.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-1823\" alt=\"cordero\" src=\"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/cordero-191x300.jpg\" width=\"191\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/cordero-191x300.jpg 191w, http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/cordero-655x1024.jpg 655w, http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/cordero.jpg 1705w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 191px) 100vw, 191px\" \/><\/a>Agust\u00edn Agra.<\/strong><\/em> &#8230;esperto ba\u00f1ado en suor. A calor agoniante do d\u00eda, o term\u00f3metro celebrou a nosa chegada a Herzegobina acadando os 39\u00baC, semella non remitir no transcurso da madrugada. F\u00f3ra, as carricantas inzan a noite co seu canto, espesan o aire coa estridencia da s\u00faa cantilena incesante.\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 Intento prender outra volta no sono. No entreso\u00f1o ve\u00f1en a min as imaxes do d\u00eda: a reconstru\u00edda ponte de pedra (StariMost) que atravesa o Neretva; a dos intr\u00e9pidos rapaces que xogan a vida saltando \u00e1s augas verde agrisadas do r\u00edo dende as s\u00faas alturas; os centos de andori\u00f1as que nos sobrevoan traballando de xeito incesante a prol das s\u00faas ni\u00f1adas; os esveltos minaretes das mesquitas, as casas brancas entre arbustos, as tendas de artes\u00e1ns e de recordos, dispostas como en calquera outro zoco musulm\u00e1n: estreito, concorrido e bulicioso&#8230;<!--more--><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Conc\u00e9ntrome no intento de recordar algunha das agudas descrici\u00f3ns que fai da cidade Rebecca West (pseud\u00f3nimo da xornalista nada en Irlanda CecilyIsabelFairfield, parella durante moitos anos de H. G. Wells) en <i>Cordero negro, halc\u00f3n gris<\/i>, un dos grandes libros de viaxes de todos os tempos no que describe a s\u00faa visita na primavera de 1937 ao daquela Reino de Iugoslavia. <a href=\"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/mostar21.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-1825\" alt=\"mostar2\" src=\"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/mostar21-300x224.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/mostar21-300x224.jpg 300w, http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/mostar21.jpg 448w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>Conc\u00e9ntrome, pero tan s\u00f3 acoden a mi\u00f1a mente visi\u00f3ns que arreguizan: fachadas ateigadas de impactos de disparos, tantos anos despois da fin da guerra, nunha casa tras outra; sacos terreos que a\u00ednda persisten cegando portas e vent\u00e1s en edificios do Boulevar, a ampla avenida que delimitaba a li\u00f1a de fronte entre a zona dos ustachas croatas do HVO \u2013responsables da demolici\u00f3n do StariMost\u2013 e a dos musulm\u00e1ns (noutrora aliados en contra do com\u00fan inimigo, os chetniks serbios); as pegadas das balas \u2013de esquerda a dereita e de abaixo arriba\u2013 que permanecen sobre un muro como testemu\u00f1a dun fusilamento ou dun paseo rematado en metrallamento&#8230;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Adormezo. F\u00f3ra, empoleiradas sobre os toros das \u00e1rbores, as carricantas de Mostar contin\u00faan a metrallar o aire, atronando a noite coa persistencia da s\u00faa chamada.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Agust\u00edn Agra. &#8230;esperto ba\u00f1ado en suor. A calor agoniante do d\u00eda, o term\u00f3metro celebrou a nosa chegada a Herzegobina acadando os 39\u00baC, semella non remitir no transcurso da madrugada. F\u00f3ra, as carricantas inzan a noite co seu canto, espesan o aire coa estridencia da s\u00faa cantilena incesante.\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 Intento prender outra &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/?p=1822\" class=\"more-link\">Seguir lendo <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Xornadario balc\u00e1nico (d\u00eda 11) Xoves, 11 xullo 2012<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[23,9,22],"tags":[],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1822"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1822"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1822\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1826,"href":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1822\/revisions\/1826"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1822"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1822"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/cafebarbantia.barbantia.es\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1822"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}